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November 18, 2024
Dewakan has made history as Malaysia’s first MICHELIN Green Star recipient while also retaining its two MICHELIN Stars. This restaurant isn’t just another fine dining spot—it’s a thoughtful exploration of Malaysia’s rich landscape and the culture that thrives within it. Dewakan offers a dining experience that makes you reconsider the connection between food, the land it comes from, and the people who cultivate it.
The name Dewakan, a combination of the Malay words for “god” (dewa) and “food” (makan), speaks to the restaurant’s reverence for the country’s natural bounty. Led by Chef Darren Teoh Min Guo, the team goes beyond simply sourcing local ingredients—they work with indigenous communities, embrace traditional methods, and explore innovative ways to present Malaysia’s flavours in ways that both surprise and comfort.
One of the standout offerings is the Tatus Hitam slipper lobster, which is slowly grilled and glazed over charcoal. The dish is accompanied by a Noni emulsion, bamboo shoots, and a selection of fragrant leaves, all served on Dewakan’s own breadfruit flatbread. Each component is designed to enhance the delicate sweetness of the lobster, making for a dish that is smoky, fresh, and full of depth.
Another thoughtful creation is the Ensabi, a dish deeply rooted in tradition. This Brassicaceae plant, cultivated by the Iban and Dayak communities, grows between rows of hill paddy and is typically stir-fried with garlic or preserved into Kasam Ensabi through fermentation. Dewakan honours this heritage while presenting it with the kind of nuance that elevates its earthy, bold flavours.
Then there’s the exquisite Charcoal-Roasted Pigeon from Perak, served with tajine-style Adan rice and a carefully crafted assortment of condiments. Highlighted among these condiments is the Umbut Naruto made from the heart of the coconut palm. Dewakan transforms the umbut into a deep brown leather-like texture, glazes it with guava, and rolls it with Spanish mackerel paste before cooking it to perfection.
What makes Dewakan truly special is its unwavering commitment to sustainability. The restaurant’s approach is comprehensive: a nose-to-tail philosophy minimises waste, while techniques like fermentation give new life to food scraps. This dedication earned Dewakan its MICHELIN Green Star, a recognition of its eco-friendly practices that inspire the entire culinary community.
So, if you’re seeking a dining experience that’s thoughtful, rooted in local culture, and unafraid to push boundaries, Dewakan is a place worth discovering. It’s a reminder of the beauty in simplicity, the richness of Malaysia’s environment, and the potential of food to connect us with something greater.
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